An American DNA-based anti-counterfeiting technology company, Applied DNA Sciences, Inc, is collaborating in an anti-counterfeiting initiative to protect fine wools in Yorkshire woolen products produced for the premiere brands. The products of their collaboration, unique fabrics marked with APDN’s SigNature DNA to prove garment authenticity, are being featured at textile shows in Europe.
The Huddersfield Textile Centre of Excellence. a long-time APDN partner with over seventy member companies, is showcasing "Yorkshire Signature DNA," a ‘DNA fabric’ developed by the Centre, using APDN’s SigNature DNA technology. The product will combat rampant counterfeiting of the historically treasured Yorkshire wools. Five of the UK’s most prestigious mills will feature APDN’s DNA fabrics: Bower Roebuck, Dormeuil, Holland and Sherry, Taylor and Lodge, and John Foster. Collectively, these fabric designers and weavers supply fabric to many of the most famous designer lines of Europe and America.
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In response to increasing demands by consumers for quality assurance and proof of origin, The Huddersfield Textile Centre of Excellence, as part of the regional Textile Futures Programme, has developed a ‘Yorkshire SigNature’ DNA to protect fabric woven in the region. Textile Futures is part financed by the European Regional Development Fund through the 2007-2013 Yorkshire and The Humber ERDF Programme.
Bill Macbeth, Managing Director of the Centre said: "The anti-counterfeit strategy involves the use of a unique botanical DNA that is impregnated into the fabric during the manufacturing process to provide authentication and brand protection for weavers of premium quality fabrics in Yorkshire". A fully equipped laboratory has been installed in the Huddersfield Centre to carry out forensic analysis of DNA samples from weavers participating in the programme. The SigNature DNA solution has been developed by Applied DNA Sciences in Stony Brook New York.
Recent market research carried out by the International Wool Textile Organisation (IWTO), a Brussels based advocacy body for the global wool industry, suggested that consumers, particularly in Asia Pacific, paying high prices for premium brands were increasingly anxious about provenance of superfine wool fabrics as the counterfeit market expands, besides worldwide growth in luxury sales.
Peter Ackroyd, President of IWTO said: "The international luxury market is very buoyant and Yorkshire weavers of worsted suitings are benefiting from the current vogue for quality fashion". Sales of British premium brands have increased dramatically over the last year, particularly to China where ‘status shopping’ is set to expand, as wealthy local consumers continue to reject poor quality merchandise. The need for DNA ‘accountability’ will extend far beyond the fashion fabric market in years to come as wool textile products for the interior environment are increasingly selected for health and safety reasons". Wool fabrics are featuring ever more widely in aircraft and land transport due to their inherent flame retardancy qualities. "Proof of content and origin will be paramount, given the understandably accountable world in which the sector works."
Richard Boide, Commercial Director of the cloth house Dormeuil, established in London and Paris in 1842, said: "Dormeuil is committed to weaving its men’s wear collections in Yorkshire and I am delighted the Centre has taken the initiative to create a programme that, should the need arise, allows us to prove in store the provenance of our cloths. This will be particularly welcome in Japan where customers are increasingly concerned about origin."
Edward Waterhouse is from Taylor and Lodge, a weaver of fine worsted cloths in Huddersfield and part of the Bulmer and Lumb Group, a founder member of the ‘Yorkshire SigNature’ programme. He said: "UK wool fabrics are enjoying unprecedented growth in demand in Asia, as ever more discerning consumers are seeking assured quality as opposed to disposable fashion. We actively protect our brand and trademarks worldwide and we warmly welcome the DNA programme which will give forensic support to our efforts in safeguarding the Group’s intellectual property."
Walid Batich, Middle East Director of Holland and Sherry, speaking from the group’s new offices and showroom in Dubai said: "Sadly this region is rife with fake goods with firms having little recourse to quick commercial justice in the courts. DNA proof of origin, easily demonstrated to consumers, will significantly assist all in this market who seek to provide genuine quality".
Speaking from the company’s weaving plant in New Mill just outside Huddersfield, Bower Roebuck’s Managing Director Ronald Hall said: "We, together with our sister company Scabal, invest heavily in design and technology to create unique cloths for very discerning clients. Protection of investment and quality assurance are priorities for the Group and our membership of ‘Yorkshire SigNature’ is seen as significant step forward in these important areas for our business".
And David Gallimore, Managing Director of John Foster, a fine worsted weaver established in 1819, now part of SIL Holdings said: "As one of the founder weaver members of the Australian Superfine Wool Growers Association, a group of sheep farmers dedicated to guaranteed provenance of fine wool, we see our participation in the Yorkshire SigNature scheme as further commitment to certification of quality and origin – assurances increasingly demanded by our East Asian customers."
The brands participating in the first commercial phase of the ‘Yorkshire SigNature’ programme featured ‘DNA’ fabrics at Milano Unica (MU) in Milan from September 13 to 15, and Premiere Vision (PV) in Paris from September 20 to 22: Bower Roebuck (MU), Dormeuil (MU, PV), Holland and Sherry (PV) Taylor and Lodge (PV) and John Foster (PV). To learn more, go to –
